
- before -

- after -



This is what the ocean looks like the morning after a HUGE downpour. Notice the brownish water, nasty foam, and overall messy conditions despite moderate offshore winds. It actually smells really bad too.

This has to be the stupidest guy in the world. The waves aren't even worth the bacteria risk.
This actually happened yesterday - I know I know, I should have written about it then.
I caught one of the best waves ever for myself today - this phrase will probably appear consistently, as I am new to surfing, and every good wave I catch seems like my best - anyway, it was a right, and I was riding the face. Working on pumping a little, feeling myself getting some speed, when I notice that the lip in front of my is starting to close. I go to turn down the face to avoid being hammered, but am not quick enough. The wave crashes down on my lower body. I feel myself start to fly, but lose my board in the whitewater. Then, on my way down, I see my board appear - flying up, directly at me. I do all that I can to avoid catching my board in the nuts, and begin to be tossed around rag doll style for a good 10 seconds. I finally surface and give my leash a tug. With a smile on my face, thirsty for more, I begin to paddle back out into the line up. I go to look at my watch - shit - its not there. Somewhat frantically, I look around, hoping to see it floating around so that we can be reunited. No such luck. Then I figure, hey, if that's what I had to sacrafice for that wave, so be it. Thank you ocean.


