ELMER ONE

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If I Give You My Watch, Will You Give Me ... ?

This actually happened yesterday - I know I know, I should have written about it then.

I caught one of the best waves ever for myself today - this phrase will probably appear consistently, as I am new to surfing, and every good wave I catch seems like my best - anyway, it was a right, and I was riding the face. Working on pumping a little, feeling myself getting some speed, when I notice that the lip in front of my is starting to close. I go to turn down the face to avoid being hammered, but am not quick enough. The wave crashes down on my lower body. I feel myself start to fly, but lose my board in the whitewater. Then, on my way down, I see my board appear - flying up, directly at me. I do all that I can to avoid catching my board in the nuts, and begin to be tossed around rag doll style for a good 10 seconds. I finally surface and give my leash a tug. With a smile on my face, thirsty for more, I begin to paddle back out into the line up. I go to look at my watch - shit - its not there. Somewhat frantically, I look around, hoping to see it floating around so that we can be reunited. No such luck. Then I figure, hey, if that's what I had to sacrafice for that wave, so be it. Thank you ocean.

February 18, 2005 | Surfing Related | PermaLink | Comments (0)

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