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Dear Surfboard, Thank you for the sore ass!

Wasn't my board's fault. I wasn't paddling hard enough for a good sized set wave. Next thing I knew, I was going over the falls in a comprising position. A sharp pain in my arse combined with wrestling my leash away from dome were the events to follow. I grabbed my board upon surfacing and paddled back out, cursing at myself for the lazyness, knowing that the punishment I just received was well deserved.

I caught a small in betweener next, and as I was pumping down the line, I noticed my board was really loose under my feet. Not thinking too much about it, I paddled back out, and lined myself up for another set wave about the size of the one that caused my punishment earlier. I dropped in, and started my bottom turn. Out of nowhere, my board shot out from under me, and I went face first, landing in just the right spot to be tossed around for a while, as if landing on my face wasn't bad enough. My board was floating upside down when I surfaced, and low and behold, my center fin was missing. The plug even got ripped out! Talk about buns of steel! haha ... anyway, the board is in the shop, won't be getting it back until Friday - which sucks because we are finally under nice weather again, and some decent south swells are lined up.

June 19, 2005 | Surfing Related | PermaLink | Comments (0)


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