Past Entries
The Surf Today
Designologue - Condition One Off
A Thousand Words - 08-24-05
El Gato Cazador de la Mosca
This past South Swell
August 15, 2005
The Surf Today
Yeah, it was fun today. I keep forgetting to take my camera with me to photograph the waves we've had lately. Good size, fun waves. Occasional overhead sets, but mostly shoulder to head high. I had a few good ones this morning with a few lips damn near going over my head - still working on that.
I also had an incident with another surfer. An outside set wave - way bigger than the average sets today - started to pick up on my way back from a wave. I started paddling hard to make it over, or at least under in time to not get rocked. A small swell then got inbetween my vision and this beast, and when I made it over that, I noticed I know had two things to worry about. Another surfer had made the drop, and was making his way in my direction. It was a nice looking wave, a well shaped left, and this goofey footer was working it. We saw eachother and knew we were gonna crash. I tried to duck the face of the wave, but I lost my board AND got nailed by the wave. To add insult to injury, I fucked up that surfer's ride. When I surfaced, I was looking around for the surfer, but didn't see him. He surfaced eventually, just in time to see that the wave he was on was one of a pair. I duck dove this wave, he got nailed. Finally, he made it back to the line up next to me, and I was like "dude, that was my bad - I was trying to get out of our way."
He was like - oh don't trip, are you cool.
"Yeah" I said, "I think our boards hit tho."
He checked around, as did I. Then I saw it - two deap gashes made by fins on my rail.
He was like - dude I'm sorry about your board. But, I wasn't trippin. The waves were just too fun today, and I have an old board - time for a new one!
August 30, 2005 | Surfing Related | PermaLink | Comments (0)
Designologue - Condition One Off
Here is my first of many photoshop explorations that will be appearing on www.designologue.com. Just simple visual excersize to keep my creative self inspired and active.
August 30, 2005 | Graphic Design Related | PermaLink | Comments (0)
A Thousand Words - 08-24-05
This image is not supposed to be something special. I took a photo of a palm tree out my window, and left the micro option on, so it focused on the screen instead. I'll probably try to use this as a texture somewhere in my work.
August 24, 2005 | A Thousand Words | PermaLink | Comments (0)
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