ELMER ONE

Recent Entries

The Surf Today

Yeah, it was fun today. I keep forgetting to take my camera with me to photograph the waves we've had lately. Good size, fun waves. Occasional overhead sets, but mostly shoulder to head high. I had a few good ones this morning with a few lips damn near going over my head - still working on that.

I also had an incident with another surfer. An outside set wave - way bigger than the average sets today - started to pick up on my way back from a wave. I started paddling hard to make it over, or at least under in time to not get rocked. A small swell then got inbetween my vision and this beast, and when I made it over that, I noticed I know had two things to worry about. Another surfer had made the drop, and was making his way in my direction. It was a nice looking wave, a well shaped left, and this goofey footer was working it. We saw eachother and knew we were gonna crash. I tried to duck the face of the wave, but I lost my board AND got nailed by the wave. To add insult to injury, I fucked up that surfer's ride. When I surfaced, I was looking around for the surfer, but didn't see him. He surfaced eventually, just in time to see that the wave he was on was one of a pair. I duck dove this wave, he got nailed. Finally, he made it back to the line up next to me, and I was like "dude, that was my bad - I was trying to get out of our way."

He was like - oh don't trip, are you cool.

"Yeah" I said, "I think our boards hit tho."

He checked around, as did I. Then I saw it - two deap gashes made by fins on my rail.

He was like - dude I'm sorry about your board. But, I wasn't trippin. The waves were just too fun today, and I have an old board - time for a new one!

August 30, 2005 | Surfing Related | PermaLink | Comments (0)

Comments

Post a comment

Archives

Categories