

This is the tail my new surf board. Notice the gash from the end to the leash plug. That's not supposed to be there. I'm not too sure what happened - but now I have two boards that need fixing - and the surf is just starting to get good - after about a month and a half of being shitty.

Here's the underside - yes - the gash goes ALL the way through.
These pictures really don't do the waves justice. But, as promised, I posted what I took. I really need to get a camera with a zoom lens. Soon ... very soon.









If you want to see some good images of this day - check out SurfShot's "Biggest Swell of the Year" Special.
Take a second to look at the above image. It is the last frame - 180 hours into the future WWIII Pacific Wave Period Animation. I live just above 30 N on the North American continent, in Oceanside California - San Diego County - south of Los Angeles.
Anyway - this week, we are forcasted to get surf in the 12-15ft face range. A high surf advisory will be in effect - and extreme caution is being advised to anyone who thinks they can handle it. The past couple of days here in North County have been FUN! Large, powerful waves with plenty of juice in them. Add to that a decent offshore wind pattern in the AM - and all you need to do is find a fun break that isn't closing out - which I did on today and yesterday.
Currently, we are in the yellow range if you're looking at the above image. Wednesday – Thursday will be in the orange range. I plan on going down to La Jolla Cove to have a look at what should be the first awakening of a San Diego Big Wave in quite some time on Wednesday evening.
But, what really has me trippin out is the large area of bright purple or pink headed straight at the California coast!
Check back in a few weeks if you want to see some pictures of some large waves - and possibly some people who are much more skilled and probably a lot crazier that I am attampting to surf them - which will give a good scale to the size of them.
Peace